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1 Bedford Cords
Fabrics having cords or ribs in the direction of the warp produced by interweaving the weft in plain or twill order with alternate groups of warp threads. The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing warp threads. Generally woven in dobby looms. All cotton, all wool or mixed. A standard cotton cloth is made 36-in., 144 X 100 per inch, 40's/50's, with 20's wadding ends. The diagram gives the weave. When the face ends X are weaving plain in one section, the face ends are lifted in the other section, this is for two picks, and then the weave is reversed. The plain ends are separated in the reed.
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Another cloth is made 30-in. from 24's warp, 36's weft, with every seventh cord made from coloured yarn. A heavy cloth is made for use as riding breeches in many qualities. Also made with wool yams. The illustration (A) shows a fancy Bedford cord for dress goods. There are ten padding cords to the inch, as shown by the broader cord stripes. These dress goods styles are made from a two-fold warp and single weft, all Egyptian yams. Fabric B is a three-colour fancy weave.
The term " London Cord " is given to a heavy cotton Bedford Cord, woven with a 2 X 1 twill face. One quality is 88 X 80 per inch, 16/20's. Frequently padding ends are used to give prominence to the cords. Bedford Cord shirtings are made from the 144 X 110 cloth, usually 33/34-in. and with coloured stripes
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2 London Cord
A satin-faced Bedford cord fabric on six picks as the weave shown. This brings the face threads to the top giving better wear and appearance; \'s show cutting ends, plain weave, full squares are face ends, and /'s show the wadding ends (see Bedford Cords).
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3 Clear Finish
This term is generally applied to the finish given to warp-faced woollen fabrics, and means that after finishing, the weave is clearly visible. The fabric is felted to give a compact structure, then raised or brushed and afterwards is cropped to remove loose fibres from the face. Such material as Venetians, Whipcords, Wool Bedford Cords, Botany Twills, etc., are clear finished. -
4 Cutting Threads
These are threads which form the furrows in cord fabrics by dividing the ribs as seen in Bedford cords. They are interlaced with the weft in plain weave order. -
5 Diable Fuerte
The term in South America for Bedford cords and corduroys. -
6 Stuffer Threads
A term used in some districts for the thick threads used as padding in such fabrics as Bedford cords and which lie between the face and back of the cloth, inter-weaving with no threads. These yarns are usually of cheaper material than the face yarns. -
7 Vestings
Fabrics formerly very popular for men's fancy vests and other dress purposes. The range includes pique welts, Bedford cords, and an infinite variety of figured weaves. Some styles had very elaborate jacquard figured ornamentation depicting hunting and pastoral subjects. A commoner method of ornamentation was to use the double plain texture and introduce small extra warp or extra weft spots in silk yarns dyed in gay colours. All white pique with fine well defined welts were formerly in great favour for occasional wear on special occasions. -
8 Welts, Woven
WELTS, WOVENBoth the terms pique and toilet welt are used to describe a distinctive class of fabric -which is produced in plain and in figured styles. The distinctive feature of a pique or welt consists in well-defined rounded ribs running across the cloth from selvedge to selvedge, e.g., contrary to Bedford cords in which the ribs run down the cloth parallel with the selvedges. Pique welts require two warps and two or more wefts. The warp ends are arranged 2 face 1 back, and the latter are coarser than the face and are woven with greater tension, as they interweave with the cutting picks to form the troughs between the ribs. Sometimes wadding picks are inserted between the back and the face warps to throw the ribs into greater prominence.
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